Ferrari Mailing List: Re: Problems with 308

[DomCarri (zigzagzoot]

Jim
Tell us about these MACarbon struts and how about a picture.  Are these an
available item or home made.
Did the rear about 2 years ago and must be busy so have not gotten around to
the front yet.  The rear was very easy.  I used some brass plumbing fittings
laying around that allowed me to use the original bolt.  Remove bumper and
store spacer block in box with emission and A/C parts; reassemble with
spacer (brass fitting) on bolt first, then put bolt through mounting bracket
and bolt on bumper.
Dom
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Brown [mailto:barchetta [at] verizon.net] 
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 7:08 AM
To: Dominic Carri
Cc: The FerrariList
Subject: Re: [Ferrari] Problems with 308

before you do that check your crank sensors. They are located  at the 2, 7
and 11 Oclock positions on the rear of the flywheel housing. Rutlands has
them for about 90 bucks each but a good cleaning of magnetic contacts may be
all you need. I recently had the same problem. The coils get no power
without the those sensors working properly.
   
  BTW George I finally got the MACarbon struts done on the front bumber.
Looks alot better now. :)
   
  Jim

georgedodson [at] comcast.net wrote:
  I finally got some time to look at the 308. In a post from a couple of
weeks ago I wrote that the engine lost power and stopped during high speed
slalom down a steep hill. The engine starts, barely, won't idle, runs rough
and there is no power (also no bad mechanical sounds from the engine).
Neither of the 1-4 or 5-8 warning lights are on. It turns out that what
power there is comes from the 1-4 bank. Removing the coil HT wire from 5-8
has no effect. However, there is spark from the 5-8 coil! I found this by
putting a HT cable from the 5-8 coil to near the block and letting it arc
over. With no coil HT wire there is some internal arc-over in the 5-8 coil
visible, but not when it is arcing to the block or connected to the
distributor. The 5-8 distributor looks fine. The 5-8 and cap rotor are OK,
no sign of tracking in the distributor. I inspected the control modules. The
compartment is dry and there is no sign of corrosion. I pulled the cables
and cleaned the contacts, but
 that
didn't help. I ran out of time before I could swap the module cables to see
if the problem stayed with the cables or went with the modules. One question
is; since there appears to be spark to the 5-8 bank, is there some external
timing mark that I can look at with my timing light to see where the spark
is coming in time? I can't find any reference to a timing mark. I can only
imagine how much a control module will cost.



Regards,

George
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