Ferrari Mailing List: Re: 355 Advice

[clyderomero (clyderomero]

I had a 308 with over 100k on it with no liner problem
So this is the first time I have heard of this
And my 512 has 80k on it as well

Clyde
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: cdatte [at] spawar.navy.mil

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 11:59:39 
To: clyde<clyderomero [at] worldnet.att.net>
Cc: The FerrariList<ferrari [at] ferrarilist.com>
Subject: Re: [Ferrari] 355 Advice


never seen 355's advertised with blown engines, where did you see them ?

At 11:32 AM 7/29/2008, David Thursby wrote:
>In addition to what Charles says below, 355s with "high" mileage
>(>80,000km) are showing a tendency for the rings to eat through the too
>thin Nikasil coating on the liners, with a complete and very expensive
>engine rebuild being required. This is brought on prematurely if some
>clot has wired open the exhaust bypass valve. These valves also tend to
>rattle as they wear. Not an issue other than it can get annoying.
>
>The F1 hydraulic pumps were a bad design, and they tend to fail too
>often for a $10,000 part. The 360 improved the design by separating the
>pump from the control unit. If you do have an F1 car that blows the
>pump, it is possible to retrofit a 360 pump unit. They're only $1000....
>
>As someone in the Ferrari parts business I know that the average amount
>spent by 355 owners is more than double that of any other model. Don't
>get me wrong - I used to have a 355 (1995 Berlinetta, black/black) and
>it was the best car I have ever owned. I just know they are the most
>expensive Ferrari to keep on the road.
>
>If you can do mechanical work yourself, then get one with a blown
>engine. You'll spend the same money getting it back together as you will
>getting a going car "right" that hasn't had any of the engine issues
>addressed. The difference is you'll know it's done right, and the car
>will have cost you significantly less to buy in the first place. In the
>US, 355s with blown engines are available for the high 20's and low
>30's. Allow another 20K for the rebuild if you do most of the work
>yourself, and you'll have a great 355 for ~50K.
>
>Would I buy another one? Yes, but with a blown engine, and when family
>finances permit.
>
>Dave
>
>Charles Perry wrote:
> > Pierre -
> >
> > I have a 98 F355 spider which I've owned since 2002. I love the car, but
> > have had all but one of the 355's famous issues and one that was my own
> > fault. Overall it is a great car, but like all Ferraris, some
> > development work was left to the owners. Knowing the issues will help
> > you see how much previous owners have done and how much you may have to
> > do.
> >
> > 1995 cars are slightly more powerful than newer units due to the change
> > in Bosch fuel injection systems that started in 1996. Some early cars
> > have had problems with valve guides wearing prematurely, which causes a
> > variety of problems. I don't think anyone has ever pinned down a year or
> > VIN range where this occurred, and there are some people with early cars
> > who have never had the problem and some people with later cars that had
> > it. We all strongly recommend a pre-purchase inspection (PPI), and it is
> > worth the extra money to pay for compression and leakdown tests to look
> > for this problem.
> >
> > 355s also have a habit of melting their exhaust manifolds. They are made
> > out of a cheap, thin steel and some have postulated that if the
> > catalytic converters get clogged, the additional heat burns the the
> > manifold. The manifolds can be replaced, rebuilt with better materials,
> > or upgraded to higher end versions like Tubi. I would recommend one of
> > the two later options if your car hasn't already had the issue fixed.
> > Fixing cost is $1500-$3000 depending on solution.
> >
> > 355s have the rubbery coating on many interior surfaces (door pulls,
> > switch trim, AC vent trim, steering console surround, emergency brake
> > surround, center console) which turns to a disgusting sticky goo over
> > time. No idea what triggers it - some have postulated sun exposure or
> > cleaning chemicals. Solutions are to replace the items ($$$), or to
> > chemically strip them down to plain plastic ($), or to upgrade them to
> > something like carbon fiber ($$$).
> >
> > 355s tend to have shrinkage in the dash leather over time, usually
> > starting with the airbag cover on the passenger side, and then the
> > instrument cluster. Leather wear on the driver's bolster is common, as
> > is road rash on the door intakes and behind the wheels where the body
> > work sticks out. This is cosmetic, so you may not care but it can be a
> > negotiating point if your car has the issue.
> >
> > You mentioned a berlinetta, so I won't bore you with the convertible top
> > issues on a spider.
> >
> > Routine maintenance isn't bad except for the 30k/5 year service where
> > the engine is pulled to do the timing belts. This is crucial and it is
> > urgent that you respect the time limit - not just the mileage limit like
> > all salesman will tell you is fine. I did drag my service out to 6
> > years, and I did break a timing belt, and I paid a painful engine
> > rebuild price as a result. My fault, but don't skimp on scheduled
> > maintenance as it only gets more expensive if you wait. This service
> > will run you anywhere from $3500 with a good independent mechanic and
> > minimal replacement to $8-10k from a dealer with "while we're in there"
> > stuff.
> >
> > Transmission is a personal choice. This was the debut of the F1 paddle
> > shift. Some love it, some don't. It is an early system, so certainly
> > slower and more clunky than current systems with potentially high repair
> > bills for things like the F1 hydraulic pump or actuators. I bought the
> > 6-speed because I like the involvement and because I believe it will be
> > easier/cheaper to service over the long run, but try both if you can.
> >
> > As Clyde says, prices are low on these. I see most Berlinetta's offered
> > in the $60k-$70k range and depending on the dealer or owner, it is not
> > unusual to get 10-30% off asking prices depending on how crazy the
> > offerer priced it to begin with. As a general rule, aftermarket
> > equipment devalues a Ferrari, so if your car has a big stereo or phat
> > chromed rims or some such thing, negotiate against that, even if you
> > like them.
> >
> > My insurance in the states is about $800/year under a collector car
> > policy with generous useage limits.
> >
> > I don't want to scare you off as these are really fun cars (any
> > Ferrari), but they are very much NOT Lexus/Toyota as far as build
> > quality and reliability, so the more you go in eyes open, the more
> > enjoyable your Ferrari experience will be. There are huge assets here
> > and at www.ferrarichat.com if you want to investigate further, or I
> > would be happy to talk to you further.
> >
> > Most important shopping tip is what Clyde already told you - buy with
> > your head, not with your heart. It's easy to get carried away with a
> > gleaming Ferrari in front of you, but if the car doesn't have
> > maintenance records and obvious signs of previous care (original books,
> > tools, etc), then wait. There is always another car, especially with
> > modern Ferraris.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > -- charles
> > -- 98 F355 Spider
> > -- 87 Testarossa
> > -- 99 Diablo
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: bouaze pierre [mailto:pbouaze [at] hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 10:12 AM
> > To: Charles Perry
> > Cc: The FerrariList
> > Subject: Re: [Ferrari] Ferrari Digest, Vol 24, Issue 38
> >
> >
> > hello all,
> >
> > I am looking to buy a ferrari 355 berlinetta, pref a 98 or 99 in the
> > next year. Can anyone help with general info (insurance, service
> > schedule, etc)  for a first time ferrari buyer??? just want to do some
> > research before i lose my virginity. Any info is appreciated
> >
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