Re: Leather Seat Reconditioning
From: LarryT (l02turnercomcast.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 04:14:15 -0800 (PST)
Thanks Rick -
Appreciate you filling in the missing/weak parts of the article. It's always helpful when someone who has done the lengthy, detailed work describes it for the rest of us.

Have a nice week -

Sincerely,
Larry T  (74 911, 91 300D 2.5T)
www.youroil.net Oil Analysis Kits &
Porsche Posters/Weber parts
Test Results - http://members.rennlist.com/oil/
.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay [at] yahoo.com>
To: "LarryT" <l02turner [at] comcast.net>
Cc: "The FerrariList" <ferrari [at] ferrarilist.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Ferrari] Leather Seat Reconditioning


Hi Larry, et al.,

I just read that article and I noticed one thing; They make it sound really easy, and there was no step wherein the leather was rehydrated and softened. It was just cleaned and painted.

I've been refinishing leather using Leatherique products for years and here's what I've learned. This technique is for total refinishing, not touch-ups. Touch-ups are done just like with paint, but without primer.

+ Connolly leather is not dyed, it's lacquered

+ To get any leather conditioning into the fibers, the old lacquer has
 to be stripped off.  That's best done with lacquer thinner and its a
 nasty process.  Doing so also strips oils out of the leather.  Use no
 more thinner than is necessary to strip the finish.

+ Once the lacquer thinner evaporates out of the leather the surface will
 be stripped of lacquer and the pores of the leather will be open.  The
 leather at this state is fragile.

+ Multiple coats of Leatherique's Rejuvenator Oil will rehydrate the
 leather with collagen and soften it nicely.  I use 4-5 coats and either
 wrap the wet surfaces with Saran Wrap or plastic garbage bags.  The
 idea is to retard the evaporation rate.  Warm is good too, like working
 on a nice sunny day.  Plan on spending up to a week on this process.

+ Once softened the leather is "healthy" again and will stand up to
 bending and stretching without damage.  This is the step that is missing
 from the magazine article - and its the most important step for
 preserving the longevity of the leather.

+ The leather needs to cure for a few days before the surface is cleaned
 with a pre-final-finish liquid that smells of Windex and ammonia.  It
 now needs to dry for a day or two.

- And this is where I deviate from Leatherique's process.  I have found
 Leatherique's light colors of dye, specifically Ferrari tan, match very
 nicely.  Black also made a nice matte finish when applied to vinyl.
 I have not found Leatherique's color match for dark colors (except
 black) to be very good.  My 308GTB's interior is dark blue.  The best
 Leatherique could do with repeated tries, is a gray-blue.  I will strip
 that finish off of my seats and door panels this winter as the color is
 applied is unacceptable.

- Do not believe any of these folks when they tell you that you can
 apply the final finish with a brush.  Yes, you can apply it but any
 larger expanses of leather will probably show brush strokes and that
 makes the finished result look amateurish.

+ I will final-finish my 308's seats and door panels with SEM's lacquer
 based finish.  It is a quality product and does dark colors really
 well.  And of course, I will spray it on.

Larry, thanks for pointing us to this article. With winter coming on for those of us in the North, these are the kinds of projects we'll be facing.

Regards,

rick


For those wishing to do this, there's a good article in
the Jan 09 issue of "Sports & Exotic Car"
magazine published by Hemmings  that shows step by step
guide to redying a leather seat -

Sincerely,
Larry T

Results generated by Tiger Technologies Web hosting using MHonArc.