Re: Replacing fuel injectors
From: Ric Rainbolt (ricrainboltgmail.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 08:27:43 -0800 (PST)
The injector is actually resting in a rubber cushion, inside the steel carrier, if memory serves. You can use a pair of open (or other suitable prying instruments) end wrenches to pry the injector out before unscrewing the carrier from the head, or you can use the injector to unscrew the carrier (be careful to keep the injector fully seated).

Ric Rainbolt

At 08:48 AM 1/14/2009, you wrote:
Hello Friends,

I have a question or two regarding the process of replacing K-Jetronic injectors.

My car uses an early K-Jetronic system, without lambda and without the vacuum limiting device fitted to U.S. Spec. cars. It also uses the earlier style of injector retainers which are screwed into the inlet runners. Here's a look at one, http://www.aubard.us/Mondial/HPIM1336.JPG . And as anyone who has removed spark plugs from an aluminum head knows, there is a chance for galling the aluminum as I (attempt to) unscrew the 25 year old steel retainers! Since these seem to be original steel injectors, they are most likely original equipment and have been in place for 25 years!

The recommended removal method is to disconnect the plumbing then unscrew the retainer with a deep socket on the injector. I anticipate a good cleaning followed by a soak of PT Blaster as a thread lubricant before attempting to unscrew the retainers. Any of you done this? Can you recommend a better methodology? Perhaps a light rap of a hammer on the steel bit by placing a larger socket over the injector; something to just loosen any corrosion between the threads and the runner?

The next issue becomes the installation of new injectors. As you probably know, the new injectors are made of brass, a softer metal. Newer cars used hard rubber plugs rather than steel retainers. My concern is about later removal of the injectors with only the soft brass injector flats to unscrew the steel retainer. So again, I ask for your experience. Should I just lube the steel threads with a copper-based anti-seize, not over tighten and not worry? Or can/should I update the retainers to the rubber plugs? Will they work in threaded holes? Or perhaps should I mill a slot in the steel retainer tops and later fabricate a special tool to help unscrew them?

Your experienced advice is appreciated.

regards,

rick
'83 Mondial QV
'79 308GTB
other stuff
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