Ferrari Mailing List: Re: Cleaning femal ends of relays procedures and spark plugs

[Adam Green (FlatCrank]

For some reason, the _expression_ "cleaning female ends" sounded like an indirect aspersion directed at Ferrari drivers ...  : |

But now I see the topic is not dialectic, but dielectric ... and yes, it's not only military standard operation procedure (crimps and dielectric grease .. never solder or friction connectors ... both of which can look "good" but actually be dry ... and will fail under heat or mechanical or fatigue conditions) but it does result in fewer gremlins on cars (especially Italian or English) and boats.

All this just reminds me fond memories learning the ins and outs of a fibreglass body 308, a Healey, a bugeye Sprite, and a Fiat 125 ... at the time, not so fondly, but every passing decade, the rear view mirror just seems to get more rosy, retrospectively.  Each of those cars would "fail to proceed" and yet be in seemingly perfect condition.  It would be years later till I found out that it was not "normal" to expect that a machine could just stop working for no good reason other than poor design and inadequate parts.

Adam

On Mon, Aug 25, 2014 at 6:08 PM, Todd Walke <racertod [at] racertodd.com> wrote:

Michael wrote:

O.k. I followed someone's advice and bought the aerosol can to clean the female ends of the relays. The clerk told me to unplug the negative on the battery and shoot the spray inside the slots (female ends) of the relays. Wait 15-20 minutes and put eveything back together. Anything else I need to know ?

        I'm a fan of using dialectic grease on connectors to help minimize corrosion.  Here's a quick primer on why, for those less technically minded.

        Although metal connectors may appear to be very smooth to your eye, on a microscopic level they look like mountain ranges with high and low spots.  When you slide a terminal into its receptacle, only the "peaks" of the mountains contact and conduct electricity.  The "valleys" contain just air.  Air contains moisture and that moisture can lead, over time, to corrosion getting started in the connection.
        Sometimes just removing and reinstalling a connection will break the corrosion, expose clean metal and allow for electricity to flow once again.  The contact cleaning spray you used is designed to clean off any corrosion or dirt and get the metal nice and clean.

        If you apply some grease to the terminal first, it will fill in the "valleys" and prevent moisture from getting in there and causing corrosion.

        Can you use just any old grease?  No.  The grease must be non-conductive.  If the grease conducts electricity, some electricity may leak through the grease to an adjacent terminal (in a multi-terminal connector) or to a ground.  That isn't good.

        So we use a grease with a high "dielectric strength".  Dielectric strength is a measure of how good of an electrical insulator a material is. 

        It's commonly called "tuneup grease" as well as "dielectric grease".  Here is a link to the Permatex product that you'll likely find at any parts store:
<http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/electrical-system-maintenance/permatex-dielectric-tune-up-grease-detail>

        I use just a dab on each terminal before sliding them together.  I recommend it on engine compartment or undercar connectors that may be exposed to water.  Doesn't hurt on connections inside the car, especially on cars that may sit for longer periods of time.
        Newer cars, like my '01 Golf, have sealed connectors with seals that keep water away from the wire terminals inside.  Older cars don't use many sealed connectors and so dielectric grease can be an excellent way to limit electrical issues long term.

Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       480,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff

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