Re: oil line nut stuck solid
From: Hans E. Hansen (FListhanshansen.org)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 17:47:01 -0700 (PDT)
Thanks Les.

I had completely forgotton about that.  Our shop used that stuff, and
the mechanics loved it.  Back then, just about everything was ferrous,
so can't personally vouch for aluminum.

The GM Heat Riser Lubricant was very thin, like alcohol or lacquer
thinner - although I'm fairly certain it was neither of those.  When
you broke loose the connection, you could see how it had soaked deep
into the rust.  Far, far superior to WD-40 for this purpose, although
I have never done a side-by-side with PB Blaster.

Wondering if the actual lube might have been MoS2 rather than
graphite, but don't really know.

Hans.

On 3/30/20, Les Thompson <les21 [at] ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> I've used PB, Liquid Wrench and a lot of others. The best in my experience
> is 'Genuine GM Fluid 88862628 Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor' (available on
> Amazon) and at your local GM parts department. I found out about it over 20
> plus years ago in a British car parts catalog readers comments section and
> have used nothing else since.
>
> Now it was unavailable here in Kalifornia for a while, but is back and seems
> to work as well as the original formula. It's meant to free up and lubricate
> heat risers on exhaust systems. If you want to experience stuck and rusty,
> work on a heat riser.
>
> Not sure what the carrier solution is, but the main lubricant is graphite.
> It gets in where a lot of the other products can't.
>
> Anyone remember ARCO graphite oil? It could find any point of seepage on an
> engine and leave a trail of graphite at that point. Made the mistake of
> putting it in my BMW 2002 right after I rebuilt the engine. Ever after
> several flushes and replacing with dino oil, the rings never really seated
> properly.
>
> This stuff has saved me more times than I can count on all sorts of
> projects.
>
> Les T.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lashdeep Singh via Ferrari
> Sent: Mar 30, 2020 4:16 PM
> To: Les Thompson
> Cc: The FerrariList
> Subject: Re: [Ferrari] oil line nut stuck solid
>
> I will second Matt’s PB Blaster recommendation. Spray it on and let it soak
> overnight or a few days even.
>
> The “tightening” idea is a good one and may also uncover reverse threads
> unless you are sure it is conventional.
>
> You can also tap the end of the wrench with a hammer to give some impact.
>
> On Mar 30, 2020, at 16:52, Matt Boyd <ferrari308driver [at] gmail.com> wrote:
>
> My favorite penetrant is PB Blaster.
>
> On Mon, Mar 30, 2020, 4:11 PM Erik Nielsen <judge4re [at] gmail.com> wrote:
> The liquid wrench will not hurt.
>
> On Mar 30, 2020, at 3:06 PM, clyde romero <clyderomerof4 [at] gmail.com> 
> wrote:
>
> 
> Youre not going to break the radiator
>
> You will need a lot of leverage that’s all to get that nut to break loose
> that’s all
>
> Its been on there since it was new
>
> Try with a hammer tapping the nut with a screw driver in the direction you
> want it to come off
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Ferrari <ferrari-bounces+clyderomerof4=gmail.com [at] ferrarilist.com> 
> On
> Behalf Of Michel Savard
> Sent: Monday, March 30, 2020 3:54 PM
> To: Clyde <Clyderomerof4 [at] gmail.com>
> Cc: The FerrariList <ferrari [at] ferrarilist.com>
> Subject: [Ferrari] oil line nut stuck solid
>
>
>
> After doing my fuel filler job, I tried to do the 2 oil lines. From the
> start ,nothing was moving. First try was the closest nut: Lower oil line
> from lower part of the oil radiator (see picture). 32 mm wrench, nothing
> moved. Many many tries. It’s stuck rock solid. The whole radiator moved a
> lot, which was scary at times. I was afraid things would break around that
> nut. I mean those radiators  are not made of steel.
>
> <image001.jpg>
> What now ?
> I went back home and found an old can of “liquid wrench super penetrant”. Do
> you thing this would be enough ?
>
> What would a professional mechanic do then ?
>
> Thanks for any advice!
>
> Michael Savard (1981 308 GTSi)
>
>
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