Re: 328 stainless brake lines, rear pads replacement and more
From: Todd Walke (racertodracertodd.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 22:17:24 -0700 (PDT)
Doug wrote:

BUT before you remove the two 17mms, push the piston back into the floater.
WATCH out for fluid returning to the fluid reservoir and spilling all over -
hope the reservoir isn't topped off.  I have used a huge channel clamp to
get the thing started then a huge screwdriver and pressed the point into the
pad and the shank against the rotor.  Slowly - I don't like thinking that I
am bending the rotor (tho my physics professor would tell me I am - even if
its just a silly micron).

When I push back the pistons on my Golf's brakes, I first attach a hose to the bleed screw, put the hose into a container and crack open the bleeder as I push the piston back. This makes pushing the piston easier. More importantly, it allows the contaminated fluid in the caliper to be expelled into the container and not forced back up towards the master cylinder. This is expecially important on an ABS-equipped car as you don't want dirty fluid getting into the (expensive) ABS unit and mucking it up.



Todd Seattle,WA '86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 265,000 miles '87 Golf, Polar Silver. (boring work car) 618,000 miles <- Yeah, baby! http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff


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