Ferrari Mailing List: Re: 328 stainless brake lines, rear pads replacement and more

[Doug and Terri Anderson (dnt]

Hello Rui - Well, I looked in my Mondial/308 QV manual - no help.  Went to
the F40 - really no help, tried the 348 - nope.  So this may be no help to
you either - BUT they do resemble Dodge Van calipers so - - - here's my
take.

OH - before we go anyplace - check with your owners manual.  These things
from Ferrari are a mini workshop manual.  Any how - -

First - a VERY important step and more so than you would give credit to if
you get struck - - - take plenty of pictures of the assembled and WORKING
caliper - digital if you have it - get in close.  Regular film if you have a
50mm close up - do that.  What is of least help is Polaroid but better than
a funky memory and lastly, make a drawing and mark the tops of the pads TOP.
Pay particular attention how the pat frame fits to the caliper frame.  What
hangs on what and how is the pad supported.  In short - what keeps them from
flying out the first time you tap the brakes?  This part is similar to an
advanced math class where the instructor blast through and example, all
makes perfect sense, when you are there - and then you go home to attack the
first problem - ?? but where do I start???  It was ALL so clear only a few
hours ago - well, you get my drift.  Ergo the pictures while everything was
the way it was before you tinkered with it.  You cant take too many -
especially how the top and bottom pad frame ends correspond to the floater
and carriage.  Nuff said.

OK - your old brakes at least worked - so snap away.

Next - I would be reluctant to break loose the #11 pins.  Looks like a small
Allen and you risk stripping it.  Doesn't look like the item to remove.

Now #19 is the thing that holds the whole mess to the car.  Big bolt.  17mm?
So if you remove those two the whole caliper falls off in your hand and is
suspended by the brake line.  Looks like a job, once the car is in the air,
is to get some sort of "bench" made of wood or bricks or a huge stack of
news papers, such that you could rest the caliper on the bench without
straining the brake line.

BUT before you remove the two 17mms, push the piston back into the floater.
WATCH out for fluid returning to the fluid reservoir and spilling all over -
hope the reservoir isn't topped off.  I have used a huge channel clamp to
get the thing started then a huge screwdriver and pressed the point into the
pad and the shank against the rotor.  Slowly - I don't like thinking that I
am bending the rotor (tho my physics professor would tell me I am - even if
its just a silly micron).

Now undo the two big bolts - a little at a time each until you can turn them
by you finger while supporting the caliper by hand.  Otherwise the last bolt
will drag on the weight of the whole caliper.

Now that the rotor is out of the way - the pad NOT connected to the piston
should be quite loose.  Rest the caliper on the bench.  remove the loose
pad.  If no camera - at this point mark the top TOP and compare it to what
you bought.  If what you bought looks like the dirty old pad then proceed.
Mark the new pad TOP to duplicate the old pad.

Next, pop the other pad out of the piston (although I may consider if there
is room to replace the old other pad with the new pad while everything is
still sort of held together.  I would suggest caution such that you don't
remove the piston.  Wiggle it free.  It may just sprong out of there with a
screech.

Clean off the #11 guide pins - they mention an overhaul kit 116928 that
covers #11's - and grease with VERY high temp brake grease.  Almost looks
like silicone based stuff. Pop the other new pad in and reassemble.  Replace
bottom bolt first, then resting on that bolt, jiggle top bolt in.  Tighten
equally until both are seated then torque to place.

Well - that's my take.  My advice is free - know what it is worth.  heh heh

Have a ball and happy motoring.  Let me know how it turns out.

DOUG




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rui Gigante" <rui.gigante [at] gmail.com>
To: "DOUG" <dnt [at] dock.net>
Cc: "The FerrariList" <ferrari [at] ferrarilist.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 10:24 AM
Subject: [Ferrari] 328 stainless brake lines, rear pads replacement and more


> Hi listers,
>
> Last weekend I've finished replacing the brake lines with Goodridge
> Stainless Brake Lines. Some might remember I suspected of a problem with
> the
> master cylinder because the brake pedal would sometimes sag a bit. Well,
> after a test drive, the problem no longer happened .... and the pedal feel
> is much, much better now, specially when braking hard. Highly recommended
> !
> Strange, but maybe there was some water in the system, or it just needed a
> good cleaning. I'll keep testing ...
>
> In the process I've found that the rear brake pads need to be replaced.
> One
> of them has less than a millimeter, and since I'll have a track day at
> Estoril next saturday, I've decided to replace them. I've replaced brake
> pads before, but never on a Ferrari.
>
> I've attached the diagram of the rear caliper. Do I need to unscrew number
> 11, 13, or both, to remove the floating caliper ?
>
> Any help is appreciated before I start removing things I don't need to
> ....
>
>
> Rui
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