Re: <NFC>removing broken screw question
From: Jeff Greenfield (coyoteacme-ltd.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 21:32:30 -0800 (PST)
Some thoughts that may help you.

As others have suggested, you need to drill a hole in the screw and try to extract it. This is easier said than done.

- soak the area with a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster, freeze-off, or marvel mystery oil. BTW, WD-40 is NOT a lubricant.

- file or grind the stump of the screw flat, then center punch it as close to the center as possible.

- this may seem obvious, but make sure you use a sharp drill bit when you start drilling it.

- you may want to try drilling with a left hand drill bit, sometimes this alone will back it out.

- once you have a hole in the middle of it, you can try an ez-out, or extractor of some kind, go easy the extractors don't like a lot of torque and WILL break.

- however, if the screw broke becuase it is rusted in the housing you will need to apply heat before it will come lose. You may want to remove the complete housing from the car. If you can't safely use a torch on the housing, I've had some success using a high powered (100W +) soldering gun on the end of the fastener.

- if the above does not work and you have succesfully gotten a hole in the middle of it, you can continue drilling until you just barely touch the threads, and then chase the hole with a tap.

- if you haven't gotten the hole in the center, you may be able to use a die grinder or Dremel with an appropriate (tungsten carbide usually works best) bit, and carefully grind the remains out.

- you may have to heli-coil the hole if you damage or can't save the threads, assuming there is enough material to drill an oversize hole.

- lastly if the housing is pot metal, as some are, it is pretty brittle and you maybe screwed (no pun intended).

Be patient, you could easily spend many hours on this and may still not be able to save the housing.

Another optipn, depending on what it is, and how costly/available a replacement might be, would be to remove it and bring it to a machine or tool and die shop and have them remove it, but this may not be cost effective.

Good Luck, I've been there more times than I can remember as a result of 25+ years of repairing cars professionally in the great north east snow belt.

Jeff

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 12, 2009, at 4:24 PM, "Lee S. Lingo" <lslingo [at] comcast.net> wrote:

In my effort to replace a burned out bulb in my taillight, a screw broke in two. They have grown rusty and are rather narrow so it was no surprise. I'm able to take the top off the clam-shell and have access to the top of the remainder of the screw, but I'm not sure how to remove the tip. There's
not enough exposed to grab with needle-nose pliers.  Any suggestions?



Lee

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